Review: Tribe Hotel, Nairobi

Ambience without attitude in Kenya's capital

NAIROBI – Looking for upscale, comfortable digs in an exotic urban vacation venue, preferably one within a stone’s throw of natural attractions and daytrip destinations? Try Nairobi, Kenya – yes, that’s right, Nairobi – and local three-year-old boutique hotel Tribe.

Culture and countryside

Why Nairobi and Tribe? Despite its reputation as a chaotic and crime-plagued Third World conurbation, the city is showing up on the radar of more and more Western jet-setters. As for Tribe: Well, this is an expertly managed, exquisitely detailed property that can more than hold its own against similar establishments in more typical urban getaway spots such as New York, London and Rio de Janeiro.

In fact, Rio is a good yardstick against which to measure Tribe’s hometown. Like that sultry, seaside Brazilian city, Nairobi is a bustling, subtropical, sprawling megalopolis boasting not only all the urban ills associated with metropolitan areas in developing countries but also burgeoning art, dining and nightlife scenes, a long heritage of local music and entertainment options, and hundreds of acres of park and countryside both within and bordering the city limits.

Okay, so there’s no Ipanema or Copacabana and their famed beaches lined with sexy, bikini-clad locals, but imagine embarking on a safari in Nairobi National Park. The wildlife-rich reserve is just a few minutes’ drive from downtown Nairobi or one of its quieter, posher neighborhoods, such as Gigiri, the diplomatic quarter where Tribe is located. It’s more than possible; it’s a must.

(Now, I’m sure I’ll get emails detailing horror stories of tragedies that befell other visitors to the Kenyan capital – as I do when I sing the praises of Rio, another sometimes dangerous city where I’ve never had a bad experience – but I can honestly report feeling safe and secure in Nairobi. That’s just my honest experience. I don’t doubt misfortune has been visited on others in Kenya, as it can anywhere.)

Tribe: Fancy yet friendly

But before setting out to explore Nairobi and its surrounding wilds, it’s best to settle in at Tribe and get acquainted with the place. A posh, 137-room and -suite Design Hotels affiliate, Tribe swiftly created a name for itself as the city’s first true boutique property when it opened in 2009. It even made Conde Nast Traveler magazine’s “Hot List” of must-see hotels in 2010. The property’s uber-hip, global chic design aesthetic is enhanced by and infused with local flavor by the intelligent incorporation of indigenous Kenyan artwork throughout.

Guest units include 320-square-foot deluxe rooms; 420-square-foot superiors; 500-square-foot junior suites; 550-square-foot, split-level “Loft” business suites; 700-square-foot Ambassadorial suites; and a 1,000-square-foot Presidential suite. All rooms and suites boast large LCD TVs, free WiFi, open-plan bathrooms, rainfall showerheads, mood lighting, universal electrical outlets and complimentary minibars. In short, everything to make the North American traveler feel right at home. That’s not accidental; according to general manager Mark Somen, the U.S. is Tribe’s No. 1 source market.

Tribe’s non-accommodations facilities include an outdoor pool flanked by dining tables, lounge chairs and sofas; the Kaya Spa, with African- and Thai-inspired therapies and a gym; main restaurant Jiko, where the Italian-born chef and her friendly and professional wait staff serve up Kenyan and Western fare; Nest, a rooftop lounge where guests can partake of a waterpipe if so moved; and a conference center. A second, outdoor restaurant to proffer Mediterranean dishes and tapas, tentatively to be called Sirocco, is planned for this September,  Somen told me.

Meals and massages

I ate three meals a day for four days at Jiko. Not one was a disappointment. From Italian dishes like lasagna (always a gamble outside of Italy or culinary capitals such as New York or Paris) to local specialities like “sukuma wiki” (a leafy, green side dish made with collard greens or kale), taste and presentation were always spot on. Even the sumptuous breakfast buffet was a winner.

The real highlight, however, was the staff, who were always quick with an effusive greeting, up for a chat and checked in regularly on diner satisfaction. No gourmand, I’m normally a fast eater who’s usually in and out of restaurants in a flash, but I found myself lingering in Jiko for post-entree helpings of dessert, coffee, conversation and sheer ambience.

Another Tribe facility I had trouble tearing myself away from was the calming, idyllic Kaya Spa. My therapist, Walter, was a soft-spoken, gentle giant of a masseur whose soothing, dulcet tones and mannerisms were a pointed contrast to his powerful but controlled manipulations during my sports massage. Noting my lack of flexibility in the hamstring department, he even threw in a much-needed and -appreciated, post-massage leg-stretching session. Sheer bliss.

Pleasant, too, if not as ecstasy-inducing, were my interactions with the rest of the Tribe staff, from doormen to concierge and reception staff. Well-spoken, polite and friendly to a one, they exhibited none of the “attitude” and aloofness that’s all too commonly encountered in boutique or lifestyle properties in more jaded and, dare I say, allegedly “advanced” economies.

To keep in mind

Now for the inevitable caveats. Yes, the Third World outside Tribe’s gates does indeed assert itself occasionally. Most noticeably, the power tends to go off now and then, hotel-wide. Room lights flicker and then dim, air conditioning falls silent and still, and the ambient music floating through the hallways is cut short. But in 15 seconds or so, two backup generators kick in and all is right as rain yet again.

Another slight drawback is Tribe’s location; for all its beauty, Gigiri is a posh and verdant but relatively isolated neighborhood. The hotel provides Mercedes-Benz limousine service for guests looking to get out and about, and private taxis can also be readily hailed by doormen. (Downtown Nairobi is about a 20-minute drive away.) Thankfully, the gated and secured hotel sits next door to the heavily policed Village Market mall, where guests can peruse shops ranging in price point from stationers and supermarkets to art galleries and clothing boutiques, and even grab a beer, capuccino or meal – all under the watchful gaze of alert security staff.

Nairobi: Not to be missed

There was so much to do at both hotel and mall that three days flew by before I realized that I’d seen nothing of Nairobi proper. To rectify the situation, Tribe’s charming and more than accommodating concierge staff arranged a private guided day tour by taxi to local museums, animal preserves, curio shops and cultural attractions. The heavenly midday cup of freshly brewed Kenyan coffee I enjoyed at the Nairobi Giraffe Center – where you can hand-feed orphaned giraffes of all heights and ages – was alone worth temporarily prying myself away from Tribe’s delights.

Rates at Tribe currently start from between $280 and $320 per night. To book your Nairobi escape at Tribe, see www.tribe-hotel.com.

Bonus external link: Check out this article in British newspaper The Guardian on Nairobi’s Wilson Airport, the small airfield from which most visitors set out by prop plane for safaris farther afield in Kenya: “Nairobi, best little airport in the world.”.

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